Schwarzwald

The view from the front of the Bauernhof

To see trees densely, wildly growing; trunks thin from the crowding and competition of the others, some whole and others snapped and bent - undulating lines of fir-tops hung with white mist blending seamlessly to sky: that is what awaits the traveller to the Black Forest.

Another view from Bauernhof

Travelling to a place where for a miles and miles trees outnumber humans by a significant margin is an inspiring experience. Small hamlets nestle comfortably in the green valleys, overshadowed and surrounded by the pines by day and under the immensity of the Milky Way in all its glory by night. It isn't a foreboding overshadowing though, and nor is it a bewildering sight of our galaxy. The people here, especially in the traditional Bauernhof where humans and their livestock live under the same roof, live in place. Martin, our host, replied when asked if he travelled much, "I feel well here. My children, yes - they like to travel much; but I... I feel well here." 

As he might. Every Friday, Martin and his wife Elfriede bake 200-or-so loaves in a centuries-old oven, and are collected by local villagers. The smell of bread lingers in the air much like the mist does in the trees, as Martin bakes engrossed in his work. Inside the kitchen, Elfriede cleans and puts away the dough and bread-making equipment and continues her day cooking lunch and then going outside to tend her small kitchen garden. I can't stress enough the simplicity yet fullness of life at Jocklisbauernhof. 

The Milky Way over the Bauernhof roof

The Moser Family's Bauernhof is well known
in the area

Martin with his little helper for the day, Sophia

During our stay we visited festivals in Schiltach (during a pilgramage to find fantastic Black Forest Gateau), Wolfach, and Baden-Baden. Each had its own character - the Schiltach version was a Wild West fest, with men in pink cowboy-suits doing very strange dances, and another dance-troup that we ended-up taking part in. The Wolfach festival was a night affair, with tables laid out through the main street, all the cafés and restaurants open and with stalls, and two live bands! As with all these things, people of all ages were out enjoying themselves. We really noticed that in Germany, people seem not to only want to be eternal teenagers - people seem very comfortable in their own skins.

Schiltach "Wild West" festival

We also found the most beautiful bookshop I've ever seen, "Das Freie Buch", in Schiltach. It was decorated in warm, deep reds and dark greens, with a woodburner and gorgeous traditional rugs, and the most perfect couple of reading-chairs in traditional German style. Though we didn't want to buy anything, the co-owner was happy for us to simply sit and read for a while. Unfortunately we only had the cameraphone with us, but here is a picture of Ellie in the comfy chair, reading. It doesn't do the place justice though.

Cooking outdoors near Gutach

The wonderful Elfriede at home in her kitchen
garden at Jocklisbauernhof

We travelled back through Belgium and France, stopping for a few days in the Arndennes National Park; visiting Dinant in Belgium, hope of Adolphe Sax and the best chocolatier we've ever been to - Neuhaus, where we sampled incredible hot chocolate, pistachio gelato and handmade chocolates. Another place we much get back to at some point! There was really far too much to this trip to fit into a little blogpost like this. Suffice to say, we recommend the Schwarzwald to everyone interested in travel and getting a taste of a surprisingly different culture. It really does hold a special place in both our hearts and we hope we can return soon, for a longer time.